Lauren Kalman

As we know, it is not common practise to attend contemporary jewellery exhibitions in South Africa, however, last week I had the pleasure of doing just that.
Lauren Kalman, an American born contemporary jeweller had the opening of her exhibition ‘Spectacular’ at the US Gallery in Stellenbosch. Having studied at the Ohio State University in 2006, Kalman majored in art and technology and then went on to showcase her work at various group and solo exhibitions.
I first came across Lauren’s work in my second year at the University of Stellenbosch. Kalman visited the art department and stayed in South Africa, whilst working on her collection. Then in 2010 Kalman curated a contemporary jewellery exhibition, showcasing 20 contemporary jewellers from the Stellenbosch area, ‘Dichotomies in Objects: Contemporary South African Studio Jewellery from the Stellenbosch Area’.

So although Lauren Kalman is not a South African jeweller, I feel she deserves a mention.

‘Spectacular’ dealt with the spectacle of ‘freak shows’ or ‘side shows’ creating body garments that emphasised the obscene or uncomfortable parts of the male and female body. With the garments on exhibition, Kalman also had video installations showcasing the garments on models, forcing the viewer to be drawn into the spectical.
Always a shock to the South African public, but how else will they learn?

Find exhibition video on VIMEO:

http://vimeo.com/35904440

http://vimeo.com/35932006

GUSSIE VAN DE MERWE [ what a pleasure]

Oorbelle en Perel Snoer, 2009

Ring en Ring Boksie Speld, 2009

Ring 2, 2010

Gespe 1, 2011

Gespe 2, 2011

[ the concept ]

They say diamonds are a girl’s best friend, however, I beg to differ.
After reading an article in the April issue of ELLE, I found it to be a summarized version of my University thesis, highlighting some of the key points of my argument, only coming from the perspective of a man.

Now this completely blew my feminist theory out the window, but was never the less an interesting read. Fell spoke of the idea of proposing with a second hand diamond ring, and the uproar it caused by merely considering it.

My argument is the object itself. I do not mean to underestimate the power of the engagement ring, and its obvious beauty, I only argue the completely unrealistic value that is placed on the importance of this object.

Just a though

x

[how peculiar]

…nobody actually needs jewellery?

I should have probably posted this from the beginning, however I thought ones own conclusion to my reason would be a fun game for a little while, but let me explain.

As South African contemporary jewellers we are faced with the implications of a craft that is [socially/physically/ethically] not a necessity. We are taught and trained to think out of the box, to compete with artists and create visually appealing work that can stand on its own. May it be on an exhibition plinth or the finger of a well educated jewellery buyer, we are creating wearable art that the South African public has yet to understand. Whilst our friends in the consumer markets sell love in a four claw setting, we struggle to retain our artistic dignity.

My dear friend and artistic genius Pippa Yeats, argued just this…  why are we tearing into the earth, to retrieve precious materials to merely accessories ourselves? an argument for another day, but something that [quite simply] explains my reason, nobody actually NEEDS jewellery.

So I dedicate this space to the jewellers who see past the pretty stones, the people who create art, who ask questions and manufacture wearable answers… because it makes life so much better don’t you think?

After the chaos subsides and the designers go back to their little studios, the public is left feeling inspired and filled with the confidence of ‘I can definitely make that at home’. Those who know me well will tell you that Design Indaba is my favourite event of the year, followed closely by my birthday, […]

welcome to the NEW comers

To fall into the majority and avoid black sheep status I introduce this as an insight to South African contemporary jewellery as I see it. Underestimated to say the least, combining technique and an uncompromising understanding of design… here is a homage to the dedicated creators of the art and a little insight to the white sheep who have no clue!